Saturday, September 13, 2025

This Port in a Storm

 So the title may be a bit misleading.  Kind of sounds like I've been through this terrible circumstance and was desperate for anything that would shelter me, as the "Any port in a storm" saying describes.

This hasn't been that.  As I've likely described, I chose South Africa as a kind of respite from being as complete a foreigner as I am in many places, with neither the language skills nor the social skills to form and sustain interactions with the people around me.  But that doesn't mean South Africa felt like my only choice, or that I felt that if I didn't find an English-speaking country or region quickly I'd be in some dangerous dark place or something.  South Africa has been a point of interest to me since learning about apartheid in middle school, and climbed the list after meeting a remarkably diverse set of people while teaching in China.  One country contained multitudes, and I've been curious to explore that further, particularly as someone from a country that used to proudly title itself "the melting pot."

Used to.  *ahem*

 In my typical somewhat lackadaisical approach to choosing new places, though, I'd done little advance research on the actual culture of this country, the history beyond just the '80s, and so on.  What I didn't know or expect was that I'd find what has been by far the friendliest people I've encountered.

Now, I should define that further.  Many people in America are friendly.  I often felt at least tentatively accepted and appreciated by the local teachers in China.  I wouldn't even go so far as to characterize Bulgaria or even Georgia as unfriendly, just...more selective.  But from almost the moment I landed, I felt the difference here, and the more I've gotten out and talked to people, the more that's been confirmed.  Basically all the South Africans I've met, which has admittedly and unfortunately been almost exclusively the white South Africans, have been genuinely interested, open, welcoming, and helpful, often proactively so.  Offering rides, suggesting things to see and do, asking more probing questions and interacting meaningfully with the answers.  For a country as beset by crime as this one is, it hasn't seemed to jade the people that much, and that's just remarkable to me.

As an example of this, my AirBnB hosts volunteered (almost pushed, honestly) to take me out to the shoreline nearby, specifically the area near the Sacramento trail.  As I've done before, I've lumped all this into a single photo album for free perusal (or not).  I would like to highlight how crazy dense the coastline/"beach" was with shells, including some that got fairly large.  This section of the coast is very rocky, but with formations and erosion patterns that made me wish I'd studied more geology so I could understand how they formed.  I mean, look at this.  It's so vastly different to anything I've seen in the US, even along the coasts.  Parts of South Africa are also popular surfing destinations, and with these waves I could see why, though the Sacramento trail area is far too dangerous (obviously).

Beyond that, I've been making a pretty dedicated effort to find D&D players and games.  It's something that was a primary hobby back in the US, and for a slew of reasons that aren't important, playing online just isn't something I can get into and enjoy.  So while I'm back where English is dominant, it seemed like a good idea to enjoy that some more.  I've returned to pole classes after over a month off for the cyst removal, and found that I lost some strength and conditioning over the gap that's coming back pretty quickly.   I'm likely to be taking four classes a week by the time I'm ready to leave here.  
Well, rephrase: by the time I have to leave because my visa has run out.  I'm getting a sense that I won't be *ready to leave* at that point.

At the moment, I don't know that I have much more to say.  Got another picture of the cursed Ibises that are loud and obnoxious, a picture of a couple little lizard friends, and a mediocre picture of the red moon that resulted from the lunar eclipse that occurred here.  There's also this very bold store claim.

Now for a sight on what's coming next.
I'd initially leaned towards Nairobi, Kenya as my next destination.  Relatively close, a place of interest for some time, and with fairly common English, it seemed like a good transition of sorts.  However, in looking at Kenyan visa processes, I found that like many countries, I need to have onward travel booked in order to apply for the visa.  This meant figuring out before I left where I'd be going afterwards.  Given I'm still sort of stumbling around out here, this level of planning was somewhat new.  Sure, I'd had my whole path laid out and planned, but that was all in service of a particular goal or process; this is just living.

So off I set to figure out where I'd go next.  It was in that process that I realized that of the southeast Asian countries, Vietnam is among the only ones where there's any time of the year I'd actually enjoy it, and even that's only northern Vietnam and only during the winter.  If I stayed in Kenya for a month or two, I'd be leaving in December or January.  Having been to Vietnam before, I'm fairly confident I'd be content there for a longer stay (tourist visa caps at 90 days there); I also need to work on more stable, consistent travel because each relocation costs nearly a week of productivity and that is crippling if you move once a month or so.  
That put me in Vietnam from January to March, maybe early April...by which time it's already getting back towards the high 70s, 80s.  However, I realized that if I went to Vietnam *first*, I'd be there during the thick of winter when the temperatures would be most amenable to me.  So that's next.

Vietnam also has an onward travel requirement, though, so I had to look at what came after that.  Nairobi is entering one of their hotter times of the year in March/April, but cools down a bit by June/July; so I needed to find something more winter/spring until then.  I was first drawn to Eastern Europe, then specifically to Riga, Latvia.  So that'll follow Vietnam, then Nairobi, and honestly after that I expect to return here to Gqeberha, South Africa.  It's early yet, of course, having only been three weeks, but a large part of me could see making this a regular part of my rotation even as far away from everything as it is.

So that's the next year sketched out.  At the very least, Vietnam > Latvia is semi-solid (though not booked yet, waiting on a couple of larger jobs to pay out).  I wouldn't want to return to South Africa until May or so to avoid their summer, but Nairobi fits nicely in there both climate-wise and geographically.

 It's all quite the adventure.

4 comments:

  1. All sounds positive and some amazing pics. Hard to get an idea of wave height but you mentioned waves being big in a previous post but these look it.

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    1. Yeah, scale is hard to portray in pictures for sure, especially those taken on a cell phone by someone without a great background in photography haha. I think the 'big' waves in Batumi were mostly me thinking "how big could waves be on an inland sea." And being surprised by it. These are legitimately large waves, definitely intermediate-advanced surfer level waves. Larger than some I've seen elsewhere in the ocean by a margin.

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  2. So much beauty and so many unique formations on that shoreline! Is there a lot of tourism in the area? You seem to be near the water quite often, but I suppose that's part of the planning. The pace of your location changes seems overwhelming (to me at least). You just get settled in and learn a bit about the area and it's time to move on. The 90 day stay sounds so much more manageable. You must put in a lot of hours to finance those frequent relocation efforts.

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    1. Not enough hours thus far, which is part of the problem. Some of my burnout was coming from the frequent moves and how expensive they were getting, and some of it was from my work flow not being as high or steady as I'd hoped. Fortunately I'm doing better on both fronts with the longer stays (to be fair, Plovdiv was limited to two months by visa rules).
      And it's funny, I don't actually care about being near the water, I just happen to keep finding myself there.

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